Winter is when many field problems begin. You just don’t always see them until spring.  

Most of the issues I encounter later in the year can be traced back to two factors: what was done in late fall and how the field was treated once growth slowed down. When those two areas are handled well, spring is usually a lot smoother.  

Late Fall Sets You Up or Sets You Back  

If there’s one time of year that really matters, it’s late fall.  

Getting cultural practices done while the grass is still actively growing gives the plant a chance to store what it needs before winter hits. I see a big difference in fields where that work was completed on time versus fields that were rushed or skipped altogether.  

Soil temperature is a big part of this. The calendar doesn’t tell the whole story. Timing fertilizer and fungicide applications based on soil temperatures allows the plant to actually take them in. When that timing is off, winter damage usually isn’t far behind.  

Dormant Grass Still Needs Some Care  

One mistake I still see every winter is assuming dormant turf doesn’t need water. It does.  

Even though the grass isn’t growing, maintaining some moisture in the soil helps prevent tip desiccation during dry, cold stretches. That might mean running sprinklers lightly or hand watering when conditions call for it. You’re not trying to push growth. You’re just keeping the plant from drying out.  

Traffic is another issue. If the grass isn’t growing, it can’t recover. Keeping traffic to a minimum during dormancy makes a noticeable difference. And if nothing is growing, there’s no reason to mow.  

Warm-Season Turf: Be Careful With Nitrogen  

With warm-season grasses like Bermuda, winter fertility is an area where I see people get into trouble.  

Nitrate-based fertilizers are a better option than urea-based products in winter. The nitrogen becomes available faster and doesn’t sit in the soil as long. When nitrogen hangs around too long, especially in overseeded Bermuda, it can lead to spring dead spot or patch-type diseases.  

Irrigation should be reduced depending on location, but soil moisture still needs to be maintained.  

Cool-Season Turf Is Different  

Cool-season grasses like Kentucky bluegrass and tall fescue behave differently in the winter. In many areas, they’re still active.  

If the weather allows, winter can be a good time to work on recovery. Fertility applications and overseeding can help repair worn areas. Mowing height should stay at a typical growing height. Keeping too much leaf tissue on the plant can increase disease pressure and lead to more damage over the winter.  

Don’t Skip Irrigation System Winterization  

In regions where frost is an issue, winterizing the irrigation system is one of those things that’s easy to put off and hard to fix later.  

Fields that skip this step often spend the first part of spring dealing with broken lines and heads instead of focusing on green-up. Proper winterization saves time and avoids a lot of unnecessary repairs.  

Think About Spring Before Winter Ends  

The fields that come out of winter in the best shape are usually the ones that were prepared for fall workouts and managed consistently once winter set in.  

Pay attention to soil temperatures. Manage moisture. Limit traffic. None of this is complicated, but it matters. When those basics are handled, spring is a lot less stressful.  

Winter maintenance isn’t about doing more. It’s about doing the right things at the right time and sticking with them until growth returns.