As a homeowner, one of the most tedious and expensive repairs that you can encounter is septic system malfunction. Knowledge of preventative maintenance is the simplest and least expensive way to prevent septic issues. Provided are a few preventative guidelines that you can apply to your own septic system.
Leaching chambers are the product of choice for leach field applications over conventional pipe and gravel systems. A leaching chamber is an underground panel that creates space for waste to slowly leach, or flow, out. They are connected to distribution pipes from the septic tank, and transmit waste into the soil for final disposal.
They offer lower installation costs and less intrusive installations. Chambers eliminate the need for gravel, thereby reducing many problems inherent in gravel systems, such as compaction, loss of storage and fines due to improper installation. Chambers also maximize infiltrative surface area, offer a higher capacity of disposal and ensure long-term structural trench integrity. Depending on state and local codes, chamber systems commonly reduce the leach field area required in the field footprint, saving time, machine costs and labor.
Trench Installation Guides
When installing leaching chambers, you have to excavate the trench to a proper width and depth, depending on local code. In doing so, you will be able to formulate your maximum load limit, or the amount of weight you can have on top of the leach field, minimum crown cover, or the amount of soil from the chamber to the ground, and give you the proper engineering for a soil evaluation to ensure the correct number of panels needed for waste disposal. Typically, the total required depth from the bottom of the chamber is 18 inches tall by a minimum of 3 feet wide.
Chamber Assembly
The first step is to clear all debris, including rocks and large clumps of dirt, before you start setting the chambers. After you lay the first chamber, you can lock and drop the rest into place. A positive connection to the joint will occur when it’s laid flat on the trench bottom. After laying out your run, you will have a push-out tab on the post end of each chamber. This is used to prevent soil from migrating into the septic system. End caps are used to close off each run and to run the lateral lines into the leach field.
Some local and state codes require a splash plate. These are installed under the inlet end of the chambers. Be sure to check the requirements in your area.
Backfill and Grade
After your lines of runs are set in place, you will then start with the backfill. Fill and compact the area to the top of chambers with native soil. Keep in mind that large rocks and clumps of soil should be removed, as these could damage the chamber. You should have a minimum of 12 inches of "fill" over the top of the crown, and it could be as deep as 6 to 8 feet. When creating your slope, keep in mind it’s preferable to divert stormwater away from the leaching field.
Possible Future Issues
If you own a leach field, it is common for the fields to fail over time. A combination of design, maintenance and usage will determine the life of a leaching system. Preventative maintenance and knowing the early warning signs will save you thousands of dollars on a leach field replacement.
Tips for Homeowners
We all know that water and waste are in our septic tank, but enzymes and naturally occurring bacteria break down waste and liquefy it. The liquid travels to the leach field and enters the soil, where a purification process starts. The major issue here is when homeowners use anti-bacterial cleaners and soaps that kill bacteria, which prevents waste breakdown. When bacteria and enzymes are reduced in the septic tank, this allows for large pieces of material to travel through lateral lines and enter the leaching field. Large pieces begin to build and form a "biomat" layer, which causes most of the problems in a clogged leach field.
Never assume that your system is maintenance-free. Sometimes it’s good to have regular installments of bacteria to promote waste breakdown. Limit the use of detergent, anti-bacterial soaps and cleaners. Using harsh chemicals in household cleaning is a waste of money—what you're pouring down the drain is just going into the ground as fast as flushing water. By doing this you're not giving the chemical time to break down the material.
Using these tools and information may save you time and money. Nobody likes dealing with these issues, except the companies you’re paying to fix them. So let’s try to be more proactive in our maintenance of our leaching fields. Proper installation and maintenance will pay off in the end.